Do you have a USB power supply, other than the one that came with Homey? I wonder if perhaps the HP2026 is missing some resistors on the USB-C port to tell the host (i.e. your computer, or a “smart” power supply) to provide power on the port.
So at which side do you turn the connector, on the Homey side or on the power supply side? Also, you don’t have an Ethernet adapter sitting between the power supply and Homey, do you?
I used different sources, 2 different USB adapters, 2 different PC’s (Laptop & MAC-Mini), 3 different cables, and as a reference, my HP 23 always works.
In the situation that it doesn’t work I can not get it to work by turning the connector on the power supply side.
In the situation, it does work; it remains working by turning the connector on the power supply side.
On the Homey side, I can always get it to work/not work by turning the connector.
You might be right in that this is a hardware issue on the Homey side. You’ll have to issue a support request to Athom with your findings, as this is a community forum that isn’t used for customer support by Athom.
You don’t say. Why do you think I resorted to coming here. Read it mate, I said, no supoport no tracking. At least I know there’s a supportive community ready to offer me some help
I’'ve had a response now. It just seems to be taking a long time and there was no indication at purchase time of any items that were out of stock or backordered.
I issued the ticket related to the HP26 connector. I received a fast response with the solution to return the HP26. Parallel Athom sent me a new one. The new one doesn’t seem to have the connector problem.
Update status on migration from HP23 to HP26.
ZIGBEE: Not sure if I can call it stable yet, since last night, suddenly, 3 groups of lights switched on. For the rest, I can control ± 30 devices, except for an older OSRAM Zigbee plug that I can’t seem to connect to anymore. Will change it to a spare Shelly plug. My 2 Bridges seem to be recognised, but still have a question mark on “last seen” in the developer’s tool. I can ping them though..
ZWAVE: It takes one or two days to have a stable network. I’m able to control the devices. For some reason, my 2 bridges don’t appear in the Z-Wave network. I do have 3 “unknown” nodes. Maybe 2 of them are the bridges..(?), but I can’t ping them also no “heal”.
433MHz; have several Kaku-remote RF devices to open my garage door. This seems to work. The idea was to have the bridges help improve RF network coverage. I don’t know if the bridges really contribute.
Not sure if the bridge contributes to any network in my current setting.
WiFi: The devices I’m struggling with are 3 earlier-generation Shelly H&Ts. They are connected in the Shelly app, have an IP address, appear in HP26 and the developer tool, but are unable to update information in HP26. Also, not after forcing an update by removing the battery (and putting it back in). Hesitating to do a full reset because of being afraid of losing historical insight data.
I had some initial issues with the Dongle, but with a proper reconnect, I think it works.
MQTT: By changing the Homey IP address at several places with the new HP26 IP address, it seems to work.
Not automagically, Harry; for each 433 device you’ll have to select which device, the Pro or Bridge1, or -2, should send or should receive the RF signal.
See knowledge base:
Thx, Peter. I don’t think that option is available for RF transmitter devices, at least not for my Kaku ACCT-510. The text also says you can select the antenna for transmission (from the Pro or Bridge). You do need to enable RF signal reception on the Bridge, which I have.
The app needs to support it though.
So, if you can’t select an RF antenna for a KaKu device (after you successfully connected the bridge as satellite), you’ll need to address the app creator.
To achieve max receiving coverage of the 433 signals of the Kaku keyring senders, all 3 receivers (Pro, 2 bridges) listening is fine. Since the keyrings (every car and several keyrings have a sender attached –in this case, I can open the garage door from different locations and know which keyring/car “opened” the garage door) don’t have a fixed location, you don’t know upfront which receiver is in the best position to receive the signal. So, I’m happy with not having the receiving antenna fixed.
The question is, can you see which of the 3 receivers (Pro, Bridge 1, Bridge 2) received the signal to confirm the bridge’s contribution to the network?