btw I am using like 7 of those AQARA smart EU plugs and they work completely OK, I have had problem only with that H1 wall switch… and then with Lidl devices 
Try to replace the battery in close distance as a test 
Btw based on the links, seems to occur for Aqara plugs with newer firmware, so you might have still old FW.
I start thinking it’s so called Touchlink - kind of Touchlink | Zigbee2MQTT
Btw I simply reset/repair connection in Homey, keeping Rodret away from that socket, and despite it’s not Homey issue, the link got broken with that Aqara socket, so I’m back in business.
I start thinking that easiest solution will be add aqara m3 hub. And share devices via matter.
Just because of automation flows.
I do not have time each day investigating, which switch will randomly turned on / off based on sensors near by…
On other side it happened first time to me, yet if you would have higher combination of those devices, then it’s understandable.
Since the 12.3.0 my system has also been fubar, Ikea bulps being dropped, anything Hue has not been working, has been restarted 20 times. By now I’m just hoping that the next update will make the system usable again, done wasting more time trying to fix it.
So no, you are not the only one with a glitchy system since 12.3.0
I’m not sure any such issues are being discussed here ?
Maybe these issues will be coming to us in a few days… I have those Lidl lights from version 10.X working fine, but version 11 totally messed up everything. Version 12 fixed almost everything… and then 12.3.0 broke lots of different things again.
Back in versions 10 and 11, I had automatic updates enabled, so I couldn’t even roll back to a previous version. Learning from that experience, I turned them off. But in the meantime, I became a developer of several Homey apps, which eventually forced me to update anyway—just so I could test my apps on newer versions… 
Maybe I should just give up on this again.
I totally get you… I have 114 Zigbee devices (and like 40+ other) in my house, and keeping track of whether something broke is completely unrealistic. Instead, I just end up listening to my wife complaining that she’s going to rip out the whole smart home and replace everything with standard wiring.
Hey everyone,
So, a new update… and of course, this has nothing to do with AQARA… 
I’ve run into another strange issue. In one of my rooms, I’m using an IKEA Styrbar switch, and right below it, I have a Sonoff ZBMINIL2. The main reason for the Sonoff module is to easily reset a Lidl Zigbee light in case I need to (before, I had to pull the power cable under load to reset it, which was far from ideal).
However, here’s what’s happening: If the light hasn’t been controlled for a while, turning it on results in it turning off by itself after a few seconds. In Homey, both the light and the Sonoff still appear as ON, but the light is actually off. I then have to press ON again, and after that, it works fine.
The weird part is that sometimes it seems like the light itself is turning off directly (since I don’t hear the relay in the ZBMINIL2), while other times, the relay actually cuts the power. Either way, the end result is the same – the light turns off after a few seconds, and I have to go back to the switch (usually making it halfway across the room before realizing it).
I tried re-pairing the Styrbar remote with other Zigbee lights in adjacent rooms, but that didn’t help. I also can’t seem to force the issue right after turning the light off – even several minutes after turning it off, I can switch it back on with no issues. But after about an hour, the problem happens again.
Any ideas?
Is the ZBMINIL2 set up in a no-neutral setup? If so, that might be a cause of your problems, powering a smart light from a no-neutral switch sounds like a good way of getting unexpected behaviour.
In any case, this setup smells like solving an XY problem: because you have big issues with Homey’s Zigbee you’re creating all kinds of workarounds to apparently make it a bit more manageable.
Yes, the ZBMINIL2 is set up as no-neutral, but it doesn’t actually control anything, nor does it have any flows assigned to it. The Styrbar remote directly controls the Zigbee light through a flow, and the ZBMINIL2 is really just there as a safety measure in case I need to reset and re-add the light.
The reason for this setup is simple: I got tired of constantly disassembling the entire ceiling light and messing with live wires whenever a Zigbee reset was needed. I use this setup throughout my house for Lidl Zigbee lights that have no physical switch, except for a few Hue lights, which I can reset via a remote instead.
The weird thing is, this issue only happens in this one room, even though the setup is identical in several others. 
A factor that might play a role is the amount of power the connected lamp uses. The ZBMINIL2 requires a minimum load. If I recall correctly, at least 3-5W. You may get unexpected behavior if the load is below the minimum (light does not switch on, flickers and/or switches off).
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Exactly what I was trying to say, just better formulated
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