I would start connecting only the center (feed) wire to where the spring antenna was connected to the PCB. Performance may already improve in that case.
However, if performance doesn’t improve, you may need to connect the shield wire to the PCB as well, specifically to a GND/ground plane. Which wire is connected to what is important.
Thanks!
Does the 433 chip have a GND/ground plane or is there a specific place in the homey we can use for it?
It needs to be a GND connection on the PCB. There are probably plenty of those, but I can’t point to one specifically.
If you look at the photo in this comment, the gold-colored rings around the screw holes might be connected to GND; around the Z-Wave board, there is also a GND connection, there’s a big GND point between the SOM module and the power supply (the console connection); there’s probably one (or more) around the power supply area, and the outer shield of the Zigbee connector will also be connected to GND. But it would be best to pick a GND connection close to the 433Mhz antenna.
Ideally, you could use a multimeter in continuity mode to check points around the spring antenna against known GND connections to see if they are connected.
Please read this post and draw your own conclusion to ground it or not.
For what it’s worth: I didn’t ground mine (except the Zigbee of course because it is connected that way) and they work fine.
Do you know which devices are FLiRS? Or is it all the battery powered ones?
All but three are mains powered.
One Danalock v3 and two Multisensor 6.
The Danalock is definitely FLiRS, the Aeotec MultiSensor 6 definitely not.
Then i hope the Fibaro app fix they’re working on will solve most of the issues.
I could always get a different smart lock and keep it seperated from Homey.
Hi guys, I have opened my homey for the antenna mod, but there is no cooling block inside! I have seen some other homeys from inside in this topic, and I saw everywhere the red cooling block! How is that possible? I’m using a normal homey 2016 version…
There are many homey’s around (mostly 2016 versions) that don’t have an heat sink, and they will work just fine.
But I assume that there must be a reason why they have choosen to install a heatsink on newer versions I think…?
Hey, just wanted to say thanks for the links, installed new antenna last night and cant believe the difference.
For the 2 homeys I upgraded last night, I found the trick to getting the lid off was to run a blade around where the clear plastic joins to the top. Then apply pressure all the way around in the same location, you can hear the glue “let go”, and both my lids popped off without any pressure or force.
Can’t believe all my devices except for 2 are now single hop!
It is a pity that you do not want to (or cannot?) answer my question. That way it just seems like a post meant for bashing without foundation…
It would be a lot more useful for others to hear why I am wrong and what they should do differently. That would make your loose bag a lot more useful …
I’d like to show my mesh network after a week+ since my antenna mod.
Anyone had similar issues?
Almost all these nodes can be healed to a single hop, but it reverts to this after a short while.
Then this is supposed to be the best situation after a while…
What is the issue? Isn’t it working (correctly)?
I think he just wonders.
why I did make the antenna mod, if the number of hops afterwards is identical?
No…
When turning on the lights in larger rooms, with more than 5 dimmers etc. I’m lucky if only one dimmer dosent light.
The typical “All off” flows for away mode or night mode, I’ve been forced to have more than 30 seconds total in delays to maximize the chances of all lights being turned off. But still the standard is it still being 3-4 lights throughout the house still being on afterwards. Sometimes even showing in the app as being off, but really still on.
And The door (Danalock v3 node 39) now has a direct link, but still dosent work half the time.
I can heal the entire network, and go around using single lights etc. and everything is fine, but as soon as i run the bigger flows, it all goes haywire.
Hmm, that is nasty. You can try to place Homey somewhere else or maybe try another antenna. I have experienced that the inside of the antenna’s can differ depending on where you buy them.
Just for info: the healing command does nothing more then to force a device to look at the nearest neighbor.
But since it is dynamic, the route can change due to interference or changes in the mesh. I had severe problems when i put 2 Coolcam plugs too close to each other at some places. The plugs didn’t respond by turn or not at all together and some other devices who used them as a route also acted weird from time to time.
Also, switching a routing device completely down (no power) has the same effect. The mesh suffers from the fact that that device is suddenly gone and will rebuild.
I recently moved it to a more open area, and it still looks much the same.
Have you connected the shield of the coax to GND?
After reading through the thread It’s still unclear to me what is the best solution here.
I also suspect too much traffic due to all Fibaro devices being Includes securely in Homey.
Ok. No i didn’t connect the shields to ground. Please read this: Homey antenna mod
Then i have no clue or solution. Only thing you can do is try another antenna.
For what it’s worth: I replaced the pigtail that comes with the antenna for a more thicker one that is shielded better…
I don’t think this is a range issue, I think it’s an implementation issue with Homey. Sending multiple Z-Wave/Zigbee commands from flows at the same time (by using multiple action cards without delay) hasn’t worked well for a lot of people for quite some time. That’s why the workaround suggests adding incremental delays for each card.
