Høiax Connected smart water heaters

Thanks for the kind words.
Supporting the Nibe VVM S320 should probably be relatively simple.
All the source code for the Høiax app is available at github.
Unfortunately I am swamped with other projects (especially this one) so I am afraid there is no available time at present to set aside for other non-profit projects.

However, I will have to add support for the Høiax Connected 250 and Høiax retrofit kit pretty soon so at that point I plan to rewrite the driver to be more generic. At that point, I can probably rename the app from “Høiax” to “myUplink” and make a generic myUplink device that will just expose whatever is exposed from myUplink, but you will have to wait a bit for this, and I cannot promise anything, unfortunately.

Meanwhile, if you or someone else want to give it a shot I will happily assist.

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Hei @frodeheg
Høres strålende ut

Two days ago the on/off functionality on my water heater stopped responding (all other readings in the app work, but the on/off times out after 30 sec).

So… I wonder if anyone else is experiencing this?

Update: I have located the problem, it is being tracked here.

I will send out an update during the weekend.

The update is out for testing

It should significantly reduce the amount of internet traffic between homey and myUplink. Hopefully this will allow the myUplink server to operate more reliably when all 217 users of this app get the update as the bug in the previous version could in combination with the app “Piggy Bank” cause the Høiax app to act like it was participating in a DDoS attack on myUplink in some situations.

A user on the new test release experience crashes. I get a “409 Conflict” Response from myUplink that is not handled. I am not sure what is causing this so I added some debug feedback. If you experience the crashes please get in touch (I need you to be on testing Monday evening/night to confirm that any fix I do towards this issue is corrected before I push it to live. If you just move over to the stable release I will not see the crashes and as such I will feel inclined to push the release to stable, which might be unfortunate :grimacing: Sorry for the inconvenience…

The 409 Conflict has been resolved. Apparently this only happens when the tank has no power or network connection. A message has been added to inform the user about this instead of crashing the app.

The new version has been pushed to stable and will go live as soon as Athom has approved the update.

(note that this update does nothing else than to improve the communication with myUplink. This was required after the changes to myUplink last week. Any other feature requests are not included but are listed here)

Hello!

I havent really tough much about my Høiax 300 for the watt part, leaving it on default 3000watt since installed.

If im not mistaken, level 1 only use 1 heating element. While level 2 and 3 uses 2 heating elements.

Is there any use cases for using level 1 or 2? Can I save money on the electrical bill using 1/2 insted of just leave it on 3000 watt?

I juse today the “Piggy Bank” app to control the temperature of the Høiax unit.

If anyone else here used Piggy Bank as well, it would ve nice to hear what some of you use for the temperature controls for home/away/sleep and how much do you lower the temperature when the prices are high?

This is just speculation from my side, but the one case I suspect that you can save money by using only one heating element is when you have a low consumption. Since heat flows up you will get a larger temperature gradient across the tank if you only use the upper element. This means that you will get less hot water for use and less temperature loss to the surroundings as the volume of the hottest water is smaller than the tank itself.

Level 1 uses the upper heating element, Level 2 the lower element and Level 3 uses both if I remember correctly.

My defaults for piggy are as follows:
65 for day and night, 30 for away
Then +20 for Very cheap, +15 for Cheap, +0 for normal, -10 for expensive, and -30 for extremely expensive.

I have forced at least 4 hours to be cheap every day which will heat it up to 80 for the cheapest hours so I have a buffer for the rest of the day.

For me, this works very well but it might not be the optimal solution for you.

Since I use electrical heating in the room it is in anyway the heat loss to the surroundings doesn’t matter.

Just a question if someone can answer.
I have been logging the temperature of the water heater to figure out if I can tweak the power saving further.

Look at the log in the picture below:

At 17:52 I take a shower. Probably 6-7 minutes long. The temperature in the tank seemingly drops by about 40°C. Seems like a lot. I have the 300L tank.
Now, around 18:30 my girlfriend also takes a shower. About 10 minutes. When she starts her shower the tank says 21°C. I would expect that to be a cool experience, but no. There is plenty hot water for her entire shower, and still is after she is finished. And after her shower, the temperature only drops by two more degrees.

My question I guess is, how/where does the tank measure the temperature? Because it obviously does not represent the output temperature.

Edit:
Found my answer in the manual (Norwegian):

Some issues popping up this week, tried readding but to no avail


Please advise

Br
Vegar

Setting 100 is the average ambient temperature.
According to myUplink this can ONLY be within 10 and 35 degrees.
You are trying to set this to 4.4.

Thus, it is an invalid request.

Is it really this cold where you have the water heater?

If so you should be careful that none of the pipes freeze. (in case of a power outage I don’t think 4.4 degrees heat capacity will last very long)

(yes, I suppose I could add a clamp to the value too so you wouldn’t get an invalid request, but until then you can clamp it yourself (or heat up the room with the water heater) :wink:

Hi,
Thanks! Yes, it was exactly what I saw as well. The basement is cold, and I have considered covering the heater :slightly_smiling_face:.

Thanks and sorry for raising a false alarm!

V

Is there any point actively setting the room temperature? What is it used for?

I think myUplink uses it to calculate the heat capacity.

The homey app uses the room temperature to calculate the passive energy loss from the tank.

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I often have to restart the app, but now continuously get this error. Only me ?

See above for the reason, @hyldmo reported the same above. I will fix this. For some reason Høiax decided that you never should be below 10 degrees in the room with the tank… You can clamp the value yourself in the meantime.

I created this ticket to follow up: Make sure the room temperature is clamped within the supported range in myUplink. · Issue #7 · frodeheg/no.hoiax · GitHub

New version 1.7.22 out for testing

The only change is that the ambient temperature will be clamped within the range required by myUplink 10-35 degrees Celcius. This will ensure that the app does not crash when the room temperature exceeds these ranges.

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Any plans of supporting Homey Premiun with Bridge?

Community apps cannot support Homey Bridge due to Athom policies.
However…
There is an official myUplink app under development that will support Homey Bridge, it will become public in the not-too-distant future.

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Have anyone with the new Homey Pro tried this app and can confirm that it is working?

I just got a crash report from someone with the new Homey Pro, but I’m not sure if that was because the new Homey Pro is in beta or if it was this apps fault.

If someone can confirm that it is working on the new Homey it would be great.