Fibaro Smart Implant

Right, thanks for the explanation. I have had this issue as well and I have to say it is not clear how it resolved itself. The best I can say is that it was through actually operating the SI. At one moment no alarm on inputs (would not set) but as I switched the outputs (open the gates or garage door) then after a few operations the inputs started to set. It was always a mystery to me why they didn’t work and what started them working.
In my case the switch is on the garage door and opens when the door opens so there is a relationship between the input and output even though the two are separated.
Sorry I can’t help further. All of this is part of why it took so long to understand this device and get it stable, but once working it is a very versatile device and very reliable.

In regard to alternatives here is what I got back from my supplier when I asked the question.
“ It will depend if the wired smoke detector is outputting low or high voltage - for low voltage, we use the Fibaro Implant. For high voltage (240V), we can just use a switch lighting module with nothing connected to the output - we just wire the smoke detector alarm output to the switch input on the module.”

Hey @Franky29 here where I live is now tomorrow and I’ve managed to find some time and include a brand new Implant.
It works as expected.
A question, have u tried switching the 2 outputs manually and check if they work? Best if u use an ohmmeter in between the two contacts of either OUT1 or 2.

Just realized, I have included mine’s as non-secure, it shouldn’t make a difference if secure or not, but with Homey you never know. For that at the time of inclusion just choose Fibaro Walli Switch instead of Fibaro Implant.

And no, I did not have to switch the group association from 1.1 to 1 and back.

EDIT: I have Homey v5 and Fibaro app 3.0.6

Guys it WORKED! But only partially. Temperature still does not update every 5 seconds as set in settings, but rather few times a day. But as soon as I close IN 1 or 2 (they are set to normaly open), the alarms finally turn on as expected! So the solution suggested form my supplier worked.

This is enough for me, i dont need temperature, just the alarms to turn on when inputs close. Lets hope this will be stable and reliable solution.

@Peter_Bittner using light switch module is wonderful workaround, thank you for the idea, I might use it in the future

@everyone Thank you for your support with this, enjoy the weekend.

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That’s good news! Well done.
In regards with the internal temperature, that’s… internal. It is heavily affected by the internal electronics temperature, for example when you switch ON one output will start raise, switch ON both outputs and will raise even further. Hence, I’ve turned it off so it does not flood my z-wave network with unnecessary stuff.

Because I didn’t found on option in the advanced settings of the SI to turn it off, I looked into the manual and found this:


So the minimum interval (according to the manual) is 60 s.
5 s, as you set @Franky29, should not work correctly.

So the description of parameter 66 in Homey is incorrect:


(Translation of the German text: The minimum value is: 0, the maximum value is: 32400)

Also the description of parameter 65 ist faulty:


(Translation of the German text: The minimum value is: 0, the maximum value is: 16. The step value is: 0.1.)

Could someone of you please check if the description of parameters 65 and 66 are also incorrect in English?

It’s the same in English.

Thx, so I will contact Athom.

Does anyone if its possible to have constant load on the unit?

I mean, i would like to split a 24v guide signal into two, but that means that it needs to be constant.

And roughly how many mA or watts you talking about?

Thought it was much less, but looks like 1500mA. Look like i need to find something else yo use.

Yeah, that’s about 10 times more that the smart implant outputs can handle. Even if you split them, still way too much.

Can’t you use a Fibaro smart relay FGS214 or 215? It works on 24VDC and it can handle about 6.5A.

Hi, I’m having the same issue as Franky29.

I added a Fibaro Smart Implant to Homey, but the implant does not report any values. Only Internal Temperature is set once. And it is not updated anytime.

I was trying to change settings according to suggestions here. Like changing Group 1 from 1.1 to 1 and back, different settings for report intervals and thresholds. I was even trying another SI, but nothing helped me.

SI is working fine. Outputs react on inputs correctly and even setting outputs from Homey phone application works.

Si is just not sending any values or events. So none of my Flow is triggered.

Any advice ?

Good suggestion. But i have a problem since i only have one wire, not L, and N for instance.

L and N (live and neutral) is used when supplied with AC voltage like from your 220V mains power.
L and N becomes + and - when supply with DC voltage like in your case 24VDC.

So there is no problem.

The workaround for non responsive inputs is in another thread, in Dutch. Go to the advanced settings, change the association for Group 1 from 1.1 to 1, save, then change back to 1.1 and save.

@danone and @CB83, the Smart Modules FGS-214 / FGS-224 are not supported by the Fibaro app yet. Just for switching on/off it will work as generic device, of course. Just an info.

Use the Aeotec zwave nano switch. They work well and will take up to 10amps.

Thanks for the heads up👍

Will check it out :+1: