Fibaro double switch 2 to an outlet socket

Should terminal S1 and S2 be left empty when installing FGS223 to outlet sockets? I wired like the picture below (exept the switch and cables connected to it, change lights to outlet socket).

Why would you use a double version for one socket? A socket only needs one L, one N and one Earth, isn’t it?
Or are the sockets separated from each other?

Yes, no need to have the S1 and S2 wired.

Just be aware that in this case turning on/off is done only via Homey. No Homey, no ON or OFF.

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Please be aware of the Ampere limit when using a double switch connected to outlets. An outlet is typically typed for 10Amp 230v = 2300 w and this unit is not typed for that load (max 6,5 Amp 230v = 1495 w per channel).

The correct Fibaro unit to have infront of an 10 Amp outlet is the Fibaro Relay Switch (FGS-212).

Yes, two sockets separated from eachother.

Well, I got no power from Q1 and Q2 but I measured power in the L terminal on FGS223. So you say that I will be able to include it in Homey then turn it on and then I get power in the socket?

Yes. That’s true.
Also what @johan_bendz said is very true regarding the maximum load.

Yes, I’m thinking of only connect one socket to FGS223 as it won’t measure energy on Q2 anyway so the only thing I can do is to switch on/off with Homey. That one socket is empty but is sometimes used to plug in a vacuumcleaner and that is not good, so I use only one socket, thanks.

As long as your vacuum cleaner is less then 1400W you should be in the safe zone. Usually the rule is not to go over 80% for longer period as overheating could appear. Fibaro is preparing new line of outlets with already installed z-wave. It should be on the market in 1Q which is now. Maybe you could wait a bit more and solve the problem by the book with this devices.

Do you mean their walli-range?

As a fall back solution, you can use a a Z-Wave Remote like a switch. And make an Assoziationen between Double Switch and the remote. So you can control the double switch, even Homey is down.

Yes, exactly. I’m also interested in this and waiting for official launch.

I got the switch to work, partially as I dont get energy reports. No data at all which make me suspect that it measures energy at S1, not Q1. I think I will replace it with a Aeotec ZW116, that is a single switch that goes up to 2300W, has power meter, could that be a better option than these crappy Fibaro devices?

S1 (and S2) is an input only, by my knowledge, just a switch does not use any power whatsoever.
So yes it will only measure power on Q1 (Q2 should be able to measure power too, as it has this command class on the endpoint) .

If my theory is correct that it only reports amps that go through S1 and S2, wiring it this way should make it to report energy but not be able to turn on/off. I have to test it and see.

Above image makes no sense as S1 and S2 are just trigger ports. They are not the one to take the load. Be very carefully what you plug into those sockets connected like that. I wouldn’t do it. Load is on Q1 and Q2.

I hear what you say but I get no report on power whatsoever (“no data avaliable”) right now when load is connected to Q1, as it should be. I have 3 other FGS223 and they all report power, even if it’s zero.

Connect it on Q1 and put some load on it. Leave it on for 15 minutes and you should see report. But Q1 not S1.

Did you in your first attempt put any load on it?

Yes, I had load on it, some 250W I guess.

Strange. I have exactly the same unit and it’s reporting the power metering on Q1 for sure. There was and issue reported by Jamie about Q2 not being received by athom properly but Q1 always worked. Bo, strange. My FGS-223 is V3.3 if I’m not mistaken don’t know if this plays any role in it.

P.s. I do find Aeotec one step above fibaro at least because possibility to update the FW without having their home gateway gives them more professional look. I don’t use Aeotec myself unfortunately…