Yep… wrote it in hurry.
Using AliHelper, “trust level 94%”, but you never know 
Motors are inductive devices, which means you run the risk of high voltages being back-fed into the Shelly when you turn off the motor if you’re planning on powering the motor directly from Shelly (at least without adding a flyback diode).
4-wire PC fans have a separate PWM-based speed control wire, but that generally works with 3.3V or 5V I think.
The problem I see is that most fan controllers can only switch on and off. Also, a separate temperature sensor has to be placed on the heat sink, but then it doesn’t measure the core temperature.
In my case, I don’t have to worry about IR as Harmony does that for me. The Shelly switches very quickly and probably reacts faster to a change in core temperature than a sensor mounted on the heat sink.
What can happen? I destroy a Shelly RGBW for 20 €, but Homey nothing happens. If the first attempt goes wrong, I can try a second time with the diode.
I think it comes down to one try 
.
Please also include a camera in your setup, wouldn’t want to miss The Magic Smoke 
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I hope Homey doesn’t strike back…
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I just use a 12v 40mm fan that puls air over the heatsink, it is connected to a 5v power supply and it almost makes no sound and keeps homey below 30c. The cover is just a 3d printed one from PLA.
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Can PLEASE ANYbody explain me in detail how you got the top lid off the Homey ? Is it difficult? With shat tools ? Risc of braking something??
Red Iphonitis rigorosa : level 11
It is just clicked in, if you gently pry it of with spudger tool or something you should be fine. In the worst case you break one of the clips of the lid😬
Ok.
Thank You Very Much! 
Red Iphonitis rigorosa : level 11
It is also possible to open from the bottom with the 4 screws. Then you can take of the lid and carefully take them apart. No risk of braking anything now. 
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FYI, seems to be OKay - visual inspection etc., did not test it yet
Btw, Order date: Apr 17, 2023, delivered Apr 26 !
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004294638308.html
26 pieces left (Wifi, 4GB RAM, 32GB storage)
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Good luck !
Coukd you please make detailed guide with many pictures/photos how you replaces the CM4 ?
I’ve seen/read something about (de)soldering which give me the creeps. Never was good at this kind of manual stuff although repaired my 1st computer speakers at the age of 11 by replacing some exploded capacitors. I Just don’t have a enough good/steady hand.
(Now i’m 50- age).
Thank you.
Red Iphonitis rigorosa : level 11
Looking forward for the results! I’m expecting the last parts by the end of this week. Then I will try to make a more complete post how to, etc. But I want a complete post (Incl limitations). That will take some time.
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My module is on its way shoud arrive after 8 may :)…
For anyone who is interested; I’ve just installed a different heatsink. The temperature (LED off) was stable at 64,5-65,5c before the switch and is now 54c without the LED after the switch.
What you need if you want to replace the heatsink:
- T8H screwdriver for removing the 4 screws on the bottom of Homey
- Wrench size 5 for removing the 4 hex nuts from the heatsink
- Thermal pad with thickness of 1mm for the CPU and 3mm for the Ethernet controller (I used 21W/mK)
- Heatsink with longer fins. They are 11mm height instead of 5mm. (21gram instead of 11)
I don’t know if I am allowed to share direct links to a shop but you can find them (on AliExpress) and some pictures below could be helpful.
Heatsink (black and blue available):
Thermal pad:
Temperature:
Edit 2023-05-19: When adjusting the nuts (how ‘strong’ they are tightened), you can manage it to lower the temp to ±52c. (room temp 24c):
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Do you have homey “open” like with slots in the lid or original?
Just the original case. I don’t like holes or fans in a Domotica system. Fans use power and holes means dust. So I was looking for a solution without additional power consumption or holes in the case 
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