I’m thinking about isntalling a light track in my apartment. The way I see it now though it will be connected to a single light fixture point and span both dining and living area. They way I see it now is that I have to put a smart relay between my rail ajd my traditional switch in order to keep the rail permanently powered and then I have to include a smart bulb into every rail fixture I add in order to be able to divide it into zones.
Is thia the correct way or is there another/better way to do it?
Are you sure? Because I’ve heard some of these built in smart switches (which allow you to keep your traditional switches) have something like a “smart bulb mode” (for lack of a better term) which doesn’t cut power to the light when it is triggered.
If you still want to use the input of the smart switch, the sensor, to trigger a flow, that is possible. Then you don’t use the output of the smart switch, the actuator, to switch the mains of the lamps.
Or use a smart switch with a sensor only, like KlikAanKlikUit AWMT-003.
As far as I know “smart bulb mode” is just a commercial term for selling you a switch with a sensor and an actor function, and then not using the actor function. Also called “decoupling input from output”.
Do you by any chance know of a Z-wave variant of this kind of product? (as the KlikAanKlikUit AWMT-003 is 433mhz product I believe which I’d like to avoid if I can help it).
I am however looking for a built in switch as I, ideally, would want to reuse my existing traditional light switch (that and Aqara is a Chinese brand, whch I would like to avoid as much as I can).
Ok, that’s indeed an interesting topic you linked here.
Although (and this is probably just me), I still don’t actually understand what the potential problem with my setup would be (as to me it seems that the original poster in that topic had a different issue).
rather than the smart implant as it seems to meet my needs just fine, provided I can wire both the traditional light switch and the Fibaro switch up to the power while also simultaniously bypassing the switch for my track lighting.
Is there some context I’m missing here?
(I’m very new to this home automation thing)
Well the idea is that you connect your old switch to the Fibaro switch, and connect the lamps to the Fibaro switch. Then you “disconnect” on the Fibaro switch in the software the input from the output. That means that when you flip your old switch, the output of the Fibaro switch does not flip and the lamps are connected to the mains all the time.
In Homey you can see that you flipped your old switch and run a flow. And in Homey you can, but don’t want to, switch the output so the lamps are switched off the mains. So you can alway control your hue light or smart lights from Homey.
I am not yet shure how to “disconnect the input from the output” but I presume it will be like the smart implant.
Yes, how ever I have no experience with Shelly and don’t know how to set detached mode in Homey. Just search for “Shelly detached” or ask in the appropriate categorie. However you asked for a Z-wave device.
I got a tip from my father (who is far more versed in electricity than I am). And apparently he found out that a built in switch module exists which doesn’t have any internal physical switches and is purely made for sending z-wave signals to a hub. That device is called the shelly wave i4
I think this will do what I’m trying to achieve, yes? (the switches it should be connected to is 1 double switch and 1 single switch)
