Nice!
I’ll take a look at it immediately
When adding the device it can’t connect: Test connection never succedes. I did verify the IP and that the H&T is awake and responding to HTTP
What did the console log tell you when running the app with athom app run
Nothing except “Initializing Shelly App”.
But it connected now. Stopped the app and restarted Homey and ran it again and this time it connected 
It got the values from the device perfect.
But the H&T goes into sleep mode after a minute or so, so it going to be unavailable until the device wakes up to report a value change or send status.
I’ll let it run and test if if reconnects and get the new values when the device wakes up. I dont know how long the device is awake, so depending on the polling rate it might be unstable to get the values.
I don’t think it wakes the HTTP server when it wakes to report status 
You are right, just noticed this text in the API documentation.
Shelly H&T normally keeps its WiFi controller shut down and only wakes up when an update is due. This can either be a periodic wakeup or sensor reading change greater than the configured threshold. On these events, the device wakes up to report updated sensor values and shuts back down immediately afterwards.
This is not going to work.
Nope. Not unless you hack the H&T to keep the wifi on and equip it with a constant power source.
Quess it’s MQTT then.
Sorry for wasting your time on this
I have some questions regarding a use case for the Shelly 1 I have in mind. I would like to switch my mechanical ventilation higher when someone switches on the light in the toilet/bathroom.
Question 1: is it possible with the Shelly 1 to get a signal/status update to Homey when someone switches on the light with the manual switch?
Question 2: I don’t have a neutral wire inside the manual switchbox, only at the light bulb. Is it possible to wire the Shelly 1 at the light bulb or do I then loose the ability to switch manually?
- Yes
- As mentioned, that does not matter.
Still unsure about 2… When the light switch is turned off, there is no power going to the Shelly at the light bulb, correct? When switched on the Shelly comes online and that can be used as a trigger? So only “problem” is that light cannot be switched on by Shelly when switch is off, which is not a real problem for me.
Sorry for the redundant questions, just want to be sure before ordering …
Shelly needs a separate neutral and live wire to always have power. The wires in and out a switch are usually just a single live wire going in and a single switched wire coming out and going to the light bulb. This wire is used as input signal only for Shelly.
So no: switching just gives a signal to Shelly about the switch position. It won’t turn it off.
But I don’t have a live wire at the light bulb, just the switch wire, neutral and ground (irrelevant).
Like this scheme:
It needs a neutral wire for constant power. The switch wire from the switch will go through the Shelly so the Shelly will know when it’s power on or not. Just look at the wiring scheme for the Shelly to know what is going on. You will need it anyway no matter where you hook it up.
Still not getting it when looking at the Shelly wire diagram. It needs a live wire and neutral wire input. The problem is that my switch has the live wire and the light box has the neutral wire (and not vice versa).
So I ask again: can I use a Shelly 1 in this situation, or do I need to pull a neutral wire to the switch?
I think the latter. You’re missing one of the required wires at either end.
hello,
my homey adventure started last saturday. so far setup went fine, now i want to buy some shelly stuff and maybe someone can answer my querstions?
- does any shelly have an dry contact output?
- is there any functional differrence between shelly 1 and shelly 1.5? both are supported by the app, right?
- as far as i unerstood i can use one shelly 2.5 instead of two shelly 1, right? But hey what will be the advantage of choosing one shelly 2.5 instead of two shelly 1?
thanx
@mazpo the answer to most/all of your questions can be found on
https://shelly.cloud/shelly-25-wifi-smart-relay-roller-shutter-home-automation/
and
https://www.facebook.com/groups/ShellyIoTCommunitySupport/
https://shelly.cloud/downloads/
hello,
- Shelly 1 has a dry contact. SW input need to be the same as L-N.(or + -)
- Shelly 1.5 don’t exist. Shelly 1PM is a shelly 1 with Power meter.
- The shelly 2.5 have the capability of work as a roller shutter (one relay to open and one to close). And have power meter.
The Shelly2 has the roller shutter functionality as well. The 2.5 is smaller, had power meter functionality for both channels and can take a higher load. It’s all on the product pages.
Thank you so much guys!
So i will be able to make my garage door (220 V input, dry contact output for push switch) and my garden irrigation (220 V input, 24 VDC output for the valves)smart.
For my snart doorbell project (24 v input from a light, dry contact output for bell wire) the shelly 1 is not an option, because the input needs to be between 110-230V, right? Instead of shelly 1 i will use an Qubino Flush 1 D Relay (https://qubino.com/products/flush-1d-relay/flush-1d-relay-tech/)
Have a nice day
