@TedTolboom Ah, I didn’t know they also had a double version, thank you! Will see if I can find one of those to modify.
@TedTolboom Do you know if this one fits in a wall socket when custimized??
The double unit is done,
Works superb! We hooked up 2 switches to one standard battery in a separate battery holder, the battery should be sufficient for months of function as a normal switch setup lasts years.
So now I can turn on/off, dimm/brighten, activate scenes for all the lights in my living room with just this one wall unit.
now someone that designs the 3D printed case to fit all three of them
Thinking out loud here: it should be possible to combine one of these with a regular (230V) switch, provided that:
- the switch is of the double-pole (“tweepolig”) variety
- the switch doesn’t have to be connected to Neutral (so it only switches Live: brown wire in, black wire out)
One of the poles would switch the Zigbee device, the other pole would switch the 230V. Because in a double-pole switch both poles are separated, there’s not risk of putting 230V on the Zigbee part.
Problem is, that it’s a momentary switch (puls drukker) so there is only a connection on the black switch cable during the push.
In the next picture there’s the schematics of the momentary switch itself.
Yeah, momentary switches wouldn’t work. If you’d use a double-pole switch, the Zigbee switch would be activated the entire time the switch is on, not sure how/if that would work either.
Like I said, thinking out loud
Please do think out loud, I’m always looking for a better solution that’s cheap and works properly!
Problem with regular switches keeps being that if you turn off the power, it’s off.
True, the double-pole switch setup wouldn’t be a replacement for your setup, but another possibility to use the Zigbee devices for (basically to register is a particular hardwired switch is on/off, although it would depend on how the Zigbee devices work with their button being activated all the time).
Also thinking out loud…
At home I have Busch Jaeger switches; among others Future Linear.
Wondering if I could make / 3D print a housing or adapter piece to hold the Aqara remote double switch as an extention, while re-using the normal flippers
I think that would mean putting 230V across the Aqara contacts.
No, I have 2 sockets in a 2 frame.
Idea is to install a 3 frame, with the Aqara double remote behind the Future Linear flippers, next to the 2 sockets
I think that would work!
Isn’t that basically the same as what Kevin is doing here? Install a regular double momentary switch and have it switch the Aqara contacts (of the double remote in your case) instead of 230V.
No, because I don’t have the cavities in the wall to install a normal momentary switch…
So the idea is to use these:
I’ve fitted the double Xiaomi switches behind the momentary switch and it fits perfectly!!
This is the setup: on the left the momentary switch.
2 “industrial-style” led lightbulbs connected to a Klikaan Klikuit ACM-100 led dimmer:
They respond just a little bit slower then when hooked up to 220v switch cables, but nothing big. It takes about half a second longer to turn on.
You would still need a “momentary switching” mechanism, or at least some way of fixing the flippers to the frame (but could possibly be done with a thin metal rod running across the top of the flippers and through the mounting frame).
yes, but that is build into the housing of the original Aqara double switch
Nice effort and description!
I’ve had similar ideas, but putting a battery behind a wall isn’t good enough for the WAF at home. I don’t want to add Z-Wave devices, since I’m not using any other Z-Wave products and they’re expensive. I do like the price/proposition of Shelly units for this solution, but they cannot dim lights themselves. So I’m currently looking into these Sunricher units that work similar to Fibaro units, but on Zigbee. An order is on its way from China to experiment with. Like the Shelly they require a neutral line, a slight downside but workable.
In my configuration there is no z-wave involved! The dimmer on the lightbulb side (if necessary) is Radio wave 434 or 868mHz