[APP][Pro&Cloud] Shelly

Shelly needs a separate neutral and live wire to always have power. The wires in and out a switch are usually just a single live wire going in and a single switched wire coming out and going to the light bulb. This wire is used as input signal only for Shelly.

So no: switching just gives a signal to Shelly about the switch position. It won’t turn it off.

But I don’t have a live wire at the light bulb, just the switch wire, neutral and ground (irrelevant).

Like this scheme:

It needs a neutral wire for constant power. The switch wire from the switch will go through the Shelly so the Shelly will know when it’s power on or not. Just look at the wiring scheme for the Shelly to know what is going on. You will need it anyway no matter where you hook it up.

Still not getting it when looking at the Shelly wire diagram. It needs a live wire and neutral wire input. The problem is that my switch has the live wire and the light box has the neutral wire (and not vice versa).

So I ask again: can I use a Shelly 1 in this situation, or do I need to pull a neutral wire to the switch?

I think the latter. You’re missing one of the required wires at either end.


my homey adventure started last saturday. so far setup went fine, now i want to buy some shelly stuff and maybe someone can answer my querstions?

  1. does any shelly have an dry contact output?
  2. is there any functional differrence between shelly 1 and shelly 1.5? both are supported by the app, right?
  3. as far as i unerstood i can use one shelly 2.5 instead of two shelly 1, right? But hey what will be the advantage of choosing one shelly 2.5 instead of two shelly 1?


@mazpo the answer to most/all of your questions can be found on


  1. Shelly 1 has a dry contact. SW input need to be the same as L-N.(or + -)
  2. Shelly 1.5 don’t exist. Shelly 1PM is a shelly 1 with Power meter.
  3. The shelly 2.5 have the capability of work as a roller shutter (one relay to open and one to close). And have power meter.

The Shelly2 has the roller shutter functionality as well. The 2.5 is smaller, had power meter functionality for both channels and can take a higher load. It’s all on the product pages.

Thank you so much guys!

So i will be able to make my garage door (220 V input, dry contact output for push switch) and my garden irrigation (220 V input, 24 VDC output for the valves)smart.

For my snart doorbell project (24 v input from a light, dry contact output for bell wire) the shelly 1 is not an option, because the input needs to be between 110-230V, right? Instead of shelly 1 i will use an Qubino Flush 1 D Relay (https://qubino.com/products/flush-1d-relay/flush-1d-relay-tech/)

Have a nice day

Shelly 1 can be a 12v or 24-60v input. Only change the bridge.

I use a sonoff 4ch flashed to tasmota for smart irrigation, and a sonoff sv for garage doors. But shellies work with alexa or google out of the box.

Yes, but is replaced with shelly 2.5. You can’t buy shelly 2 anymore.

I just installed a Shelly 1. But the main reason I bought it for, was to have the wall switch as an input to the Hue light bulb. So not to switch the power on/off, but give an on/off command to the light.

In Homey I can only start a flow with Shelly being turned on or turned off. Is there a way to add the wall switch input?

In the Shelly-interface I would then setup the button type as “detached switch”, and I would like the switch input to be available in Homey as an event.

Thank you for your reply!

The API of the Shelly devices does not support this (yet). You could achieve this using MQTT however as that does have a input switch next to the default relay.

Thanks for your quick reply. I will pass my feature request also on to Shelly :slight_smile:
In the meantime I’ll give MQTT a look.

I fixed it, with help from Bogdan Dinga from the Shelly facebook page. The wall switch is now “detached”, and I use the wall switch input as a trigger in Homey.

MQTT was my way to go: the trigger is shellies/shell1-/input/# (it’s a flip switch, but I want the same scene when I flip it, not switch on/off, otherwise the “#” would’ve been a 0 or 1)

But the Shelly sends every 30 seconds a status update via MQTT. That is a problem, because the update is exactly the same message as flipping the wall switch. I fixed that via a HTTP request. I used Chrome with Postman for that. First a GET request: http://<shelly’s_IP>/settings, then you’ll likely see in the MQTT section that the update_period is set to 30. You can change that by sending another GET request:
The Shelly stops sending updates, and the wall switch is now a perfect trigger for my Homey.

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Today I received a shelly 1 PM. I will use it to activate a pool pump, will work adding it as a shelly 1? If so, the consumption will not appear, right?

That’s my guess but there is only one way to find out. I don’t have the device and Allterco (the company behind Shelly) told me they don’t update the API docs for another few weeks.

If I have time I will place it today, then I’ll tell you how it went …


I have already installed the shelly 1 PM. I have added it to Homey as a shelly 1 without any problem, work perfectly.

I have asked on the shelly support page on facebook about the API update and I have been told that there are already 3 ways to see the consumption. I have not understood it very well.

What exactly do you need to implement the consumption in the shelly 1PM?

I need up to date documentation on how the response from the API endpoints look like. If you have any technical skills yourself you could also supply these to me. If you know how to use Postman for requests please let me know and I’ll explain what you can do to help.